Burgundy and navy suede lead here: mid-grey has no hue to fight them. Cognac, dark brown and black cover summer, work and formal days.
Find what fits me bestBurgundy is a darkened red with a violet edge, and mid-grey is the background that shows it best: the cloth is paler than the leather and has no hue to argue with it. A lavender shirt picks up that violet at the collar. Wear burgundy oxfords or penny loafers to evening events, fall weddings and any day the suit feels too sober.
Navy suede loafers work under grey in a way they never do under navy or black cloth, where two near-darks end up side by side. Here the deep blue sits a clear step below the mid-grey, and a dusty blue shirt carries the same cool hue up to the collar, while the suede adds a soft surface. Wear it to a studio, a dinner or a spring party.
Cognac is a reddish mid-brown, the warmest leather on this page, and it turns a grey suit into a spring and summer outfit. Double monk straps or tasseled loafers look right with a light pink shirt at a garden wedding, a summer conference or a long lunch. Keep them for daylight; after dark the bright leather looks out of step with the cloth.
Dark brown keeps nearly all the formality of black and adds the warmth grey lacks, which is why most grey suits wear it to the office. Plain derbies or chocolate oxfords with a light blue shirt work five days a week, in every season.
Black cap-toe oxfords give a grey suit its most formal finish, a clean dark line at the floor that a white shirt answers at the collar. Wear them with a black belt and charcoal socks to interviews, client pitches and serious evening events.
Suits: Deep WinterBright WinterCool Winter
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Shoes in the suit's own grey remove the line where the pants end, so the legs seem to run straight into the floor. Grey suede can work under navy cloth; under a grey suit, pick a leather that is clearly darker, such as charcoal or black.
White leather puts the brightest point of the outfit as far from your face as it can go, so every eye drops to your feet. White sneakers under a grey suit can pass at a casual party; with any dress code, white dress shoes look borrowed from a stage.
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A mid-grey (or gray) suit has no hue and sits halfway between light and dark, which makes it the best stage for colored leather. Burgundy shows its full red-violet under it, because the cloth is lighter than the shoe and adds no color of its own, and navy suede stays cool and calm beside it, a shoe that looks like a near miss under navy or black cloth. Black and brown sit comfortably here too: black keeps a grey suit cool and strict, and every step toward brown makes it friendlier.
Choose the shoe by the occasion first and the shirt second. Burgundy and cognac suit evenings, weddings and the warm months; dark brown covers the office five days a week; black oxfords stay the safe answer for an interview or a board meeting. Match the belt to the leather, keep the socks closer to the suit than to the shoes, and let the shirt, the piece next to your face, carry the color that flatters you.
On most days, brown. Dark brown is formal enough for the office and most weddings; mid-browns and cognac lean casual and summery. The lighter the grey of the suit, the lighter the brown can go, while a charcoal suit wants the darkest browns or black.
Mid-grey or charcoal: socks that continue the suit, not the shoes, carry its line down to the floor and make the legs look longer. Navy or dark burgundy socks are a quiet alternative. Skip white athletic socks and anything brighter than your tie.
Charcoal is close enough to black that it wants dark shoes: black oxfords for formal events and funerals, dark brown or burgundy for the office. Light tan and cognac look disconnected under such a dark cloth, as if they had wandered in from another outfit. Keep the belt the same color as the shoes.
Yes. Belt and shoes are the two leathers in a suit outfit, and when they match, the eye reads them as one decision. They need not be identical, but keep them in the same color family and finish: dark brown with dark brown, black with black, and a suede belt with suede shoes where you can find one.
Plain black oxfords, polished, with a black belt. They are the most formal shoe you can wear with a grey suit and rarely look out of place in any office, whatever its dress code. Dark brown oxfords are fine in creative fields; leave loafers and suede at home, since both read as weekend shoes.