Black, nearly always: a suit with full depth and no hue wants shoes as dark. Charcoal suede, burgundy and white sneakers are the exceptions.
Find what fits me bestPlain black cap-toe oxfords, a white shirt and a black belt: at a funeral this is the outfit that draws no attention, which is the point. The shoes carry the suit's darkness down to the floor, so nothing below the waist breaks the sober line. Polish them the night before and wear black socks.
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Charcoal is the one shoe color dark enough to stay in a black suit's family while still reading as a choice. Charcoal suede derbies with a black shirt keep the whole outfit dark and cool, and the napped surface does the work color cannot. Wear it to concerts, bars and creative events, with the suede brushed and the rest of the outfit matte.
Deep burgundy is the one colored leather that can stand next to black without looking lost. Its red is dark enough to stay in the suit's register, and under a light grey shirt it becomes a quiet, warm accent. Burgundy loafers or wholecut oxfords suit a cocktail party, a winter dinner or a night at the theater.
White leather sneakers with a black suit are a party outfit, never a dress-code one. The white at your feet echoes a white shirt worn open at the collar, framing all that black between two bright points. Wear it to a birthday dinner, a launch party or a relaxed reception, in plain, spotless sneakers without colored soles.
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Brown leather is warm and mid-toned, and under black wool it looks as if it came from a different outfit. Even a very dark chocolate reads off next to true black. If you love brown shoes with a dark suit, the suit you want is navy or charcoal.
Navy shoes under a black suit are close enough to look accidental: two near-darks, one blue and one neutral, that never quite match in daylight. Either commit to black or choose a color that is clearly different, such as burgundy.
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A black suit leaves less room for shoe color than any other suit. The cloth is the darkest thing in the outfit, so anything lighter or warmer underneath draws the eye straight down, and brown leather, which flatters navy and grey, looks like a mismatch here. In color terms a black suit is all depth and no hue: the shoes should be just as dark, or clearly chosen as an accent.
For funerals, black-tie-optional weddings and formal evenings, the answer is black oxfords with a black belt, polished and plain. Outside those settings a black suit mostly goes to parties and evening events, and that is where charcoal suede, deep burgundy or even white sneakers can work. What no shoe changes is the cloth under your chin: black belongs to Winter coloring, deep, cool or bright with strong contrast between hair, skin and eyes. If your coloring is softer or warmer, charcoal or navy gives you the same formality without the hard edge.
Rarely. Black is the coldest, darkest suit color, and brown leather brings a warmth that nothing else in the outfit repeats, so the result looks unplanned rather than relaxed. If you must, choose the darkest brown you own and a matching belt, but black or burgundy almost always looks better.
Black leather oxfords or derbies, plain or cap-toe, freshly polished, with a black belt and black socks. Avoid suede, tassels, shiny buckles and anything patterned. A funeral is no place for a statement shoe: the aim is that nobody notices your feet at all.
Dark grey can, light grey rarely does. Charcoal suede is close enough to black to look planned, and its texture adds interest for evenings. Light grey leather under black cloth creates a sudden jump in lightness that pulls the eye down and makes the outfit look assembled from spare parts.
Black, in fine wool or cotton, for any formal event. At parties you can show a little color, such as burgundy or dark green, as long as the socks stay darker than your shirt. White or light grey socks between black pants and black shoes cut the leg in two, the most common slip with a black suit.
Patent leather belongs with a tuxedo at black-tie events. With an ordinary black suit, well-polished calf leather looks better: its soft shine matches the cloth instead of outshining it. For a black-tie-optional wedding, polished black oxfords are enough.